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Comments from Subscribers . . . and Preparing a Proper Roux!

10/29/2014

0 Comments

 
Perhaps the most enjoyable aspect of writing these blogs is receiving comments and suggestions from readers and subscribers.  Some are sent to me privately, and some are sent via the Comment link at the top of each Blog page.  I enjoy both, but particularly those that are posted via the Comment option.  Those are public, and available for everyone to read.
 
You may recall my mentioning before that I have (and have had) many relatives who are very accomplished in the kitchen.  One of these wonderful folks, my cousin, Bill, is (among many other things) a professional chef.  He posted a comment on my blog about Thanksgiving Day Dinner.  I hope you will take the time to read it.
Picture
Autumn in Michigan!

In his post, Bill shares his technique for roasting a turkey, and adds some thoughts (and good advice) about preparing smooth gravy.  As I mention in my response, for the reasons I cited in my Thanksgiving dinner blog, I will not be changing my own turkey preparation method this Thanksgiving Day, but I will certainly try his method on the next turkey after that!  I have not tasted Cousin Bill’s turkey, but I have enjoyed many of his other creations.  He works to high standards and continually produces outstanding results.  I just know this recipe is as good as the others of his I have experienced.
 
There is another reason for making special note of Bill’s comments – namely, his advice on preparing a roux (pronounced “roo”).  As you know, a roux is the proper way to thicken a sauce.  (Who said it was the “proper” way?  Why, the French, of course!)  Bill differentiates between a French roux and a roux.  He explains that butter is the differentiating factor – a French roux is prepared with butter and flour, while a (non-French?) roux is prepared with a fat other than butter and flour.
 
Frankly, I did not know this.  I knew various fats could be used, but I was not aware that each type of roux had a unique name.  This caused me to attempt to learn more about preparing the proper roux, and my findings prompted me to write this blog.  Spoiler alert:  The remaining portion of this blog might fall into the category of Comic Relief!  I’m not sure how serious I can be about what I discovered.
 
First, I learned that a “proper” roux consists of equal portions of a fat and flour.  I thought I knew that all along.  What I didn’t realize is that equal parts means by weight, not by volume.  That was my first error.  Butter, like most other liquid fats, weighs about ½ ounce per tablespoon.  A tablespoon of King Arthur’s All-Purpose flour (my personal favorite) weighs only about ¼ ounce (actually 0.2656 ounces).  That, of course, means the ratio of flour to fat volumetrically is 2 to 1 – not 1 to 1 as I always thought, and as you can see if you check my recipe for Cheese Sauce (as just one example).
 
The comedy begins, however, when one looks at the recipes that follow online definitions of “roux”.  After citing the equal portions by weight rule, several sites proceeded to offer recipes calling for 1 tablespoon of flour for each tablespoon of fat.  Of the several sites I examined, only 1 in 3 got it right!  The user comments on many of these sites added more humor.  For example, more than one user was upset that their grandmother’s recipe for preparing a roux using equal portions (by volume!) was being challenged.
 
My takeaway from all this is that, proper or not, there is more than one way to prepare a roux – even after you have decided whether to use butter or another fat, or a combination of fats.  My 1 to 1 ratio by volume has never failed me, but I assure you I will try the 1 to 1 ratio by weight at my next opportunity – and, I will of course report my findings here.
 
In the meantime, I invite all of you to share any thoughts or suggestions – on this or any other topic – via the Comment link on each blog page.  I look forward to hearing from you.
 
Buon appetito.

P.S.  A few hours after posting the blog above, I decided to try making a gravy using weight equivalent amounts of butter and flour.  I started with 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) of butter and 4 tablespoons (1 ounce) of King Arthur's All-Purpose flour.  That cooked over medium low heat for five minutes.  Instead of the viscous liquid I experience with volumetric equivalents of flour and fat, weight equivalents produced something more akin to mashed potatoes.  Constant stirring was required to prevent burning, even at this relatively low temperature.  Carefully following Cousin Bill's instructions, I then added 2 cups of beef stock.  After reaching the boiling point, this produced a very smooth but also very viscous gravy.  I decided to add another quarter cup of stock, which satisfied my preference for the gravy's consistency.  My bottom line:  nothing really changed except the amount of gravy produced per tablespoon of fat.  The result was delicious, but then so were my earlier versions.  There was just less of it before!

Consequently, I have decided (tentatively at least) to not change any of the recipes that I have posted earlier that call for preparing a roux.  Again, I invite your candid comments.
 
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Thanksgiving Dinner

10/27/2014

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It is probably safe to say that most families have Thanksgiving Day traditions – traditions which may include parades, football games, family get-togethers, and (hopefully) dinner.  My family has celebrated Thanksgiving in almost the same way every year since as far back as I can remember.  We begin by watching a parade or two on television; work feverishly to get the turkey in the oven before the start of the Lions football game; and then relax and enjoy roast stuffed turkey with all the trimmings.  We’ve made a few “adjustments” here and there, we’ve tried a few new recipes and cooking methods, but when we do someone at the table will invariably say, “That was good, but can we go back to the old way next year?”  This blog is dedicated to “the old way,” or at least the old way as my family defines it.
THANKSGIVING DINNER
Roast Stuffed Turkey
Pork Sausage Dressing
Turkey Pan Gravy
Whipped Potatoes
Candied Sweet Potatoes
Vegetables with Cheese Sauce
Cherry Cranberry Sauce
Parker House Rolls
Pumpkin Pie

I must also add that I understand that traditions are special.  If you change them too often, they are (arguably) no longer traditions.  Consequently, while I am describing our traditions and (specifically) the recipes that make our traditions so special to us, I am certainly not suggesting or implying that you should change or modify your own traditions.  On the other hand, I hear from several of you periodically and I’ve noted a common theme to your comments.  Namely, you appreciate new ideas and new ways to prepare flavorful foods.  So it is in that spirit that I tempt you with my family’s version of Thanksgiving Dinner.
 
I have already posted comments about some of the courses included in our Thanksgiving Dinner, so I will confine my comments here to the turkey, stuffing, gravy, and sweet potatoes – although I doubt I’ll be able to resist making a comment about the pumpkin pie recipe.
 
I found the original basis for our Roast Stuffed Turkey recipe in a Better Homes and Gardens New Cook Book that belonged either to my mother or mother-in-law decades ago.  Unfortunately, there is no publication date.  My father used that BH&G recipe for every Thanksgiving turkey I can remember.  When I began using it for my family I changed it slightly and increased the oven temperature from 325° F to 350° F, thus reducing the cooking time significantly.  Either temperature works equally well, however.
 
As you know, roasting a turkey without completely dehydrating it can be a challenge.  A turkey is perfectly cooked when the thigh and leg meat reach 170° F and the white meat reaches 160° F.  Given its irregular shape, that is a near impossibility with a turkey, regardless of the cooking method.  Add the stuffing, which also must reach 160°, and the task is even more challenging.
 
The most important thing to remember is that cooking a massive piece of meat like a 16 pound stuffed turkey requires an oven temperature that is sufficiently high to raise the temperature of the center of the meat to the desired end point before the outside layer of meat dries out (dehydrates).  For a turkey, 300° is too low, and 375° is too high.  The lower temperature takes too long, and the higher temperature cooks the outer meat layers too quickly.  And yes, even at 325° or 350° some of the outer meat layers will exceed 170° before the center of the stuffing reaches 160°, but much of the moistness of the dark meat comes from collagen, not water; and the turkey’s skin actually serves to minimize water loss from the white meat (unless the temperature goes too high).
 
As you will see in the directions for Roast Stuffed Turkey, a fresh (never frozen) turkey is much preferred.  You will find the fresh turkey to be much juicier because natural juices are retained during cooking more than the liquids invariably injected into frozen birds.  Also, an aluminum foil “tent” is required for the first hours of cooking.  The tent helps to ensure the breast meat does not over-brown.  Most important, it is necessary to have the tip of a reliable meat thermometer placed as close to the center of the stuffing as possible.  When the thermometer reads 160° F, the turkey is done!  (It is always prudent to check a few more areas of the bird for cold spots, but if the thermometer was placed correctly, there should be no cold spots.  Also, the back of the turkey may be undercooked somewhat, but there is very little meat there, so this should not be a concern.  You can always use meat from this part of the turkey for another dish like Turkey Tetrazzini.)

After roasting, the turkey should be allow to rest (covered) for 20 to 30 minutes.  This is the perfect time to prepare the gravy.  Start by measuring the accumulated fat and then returning 4 or 5 tablespoons to the roasting pan along with an equal amount of flour.  After the roux has cooked for a few minutes, use chicken stock (not water) to deglaze the pan and incorporate all the browned bits on the bottom of the roasting pan.  Then I suggest transferring the gravy to a more convenient sauce pan and continue heating.  When the gravy begins to simmer, add more stock until the sauce reaches the desired consistency. 

The Pork Sausage Stuffing recipe is also originally a BH&G creation, dating back to the early nineteen fifties, although I made several changes many years ago.  I remember helping my father slice and cube the bread until we had twenty or so heaping cups.  He diced the onion and celery, while I browned the sausage.  My son and daughter helped me years ago, and now my grandchildren do much of the “work.”  Ah, tradition!
 
I’m reasonably certain my father created the recipe for Candied Sweet Potatoes.  I’ve posted it completely unchanged from notes in his handwriting.  My oldest granddaughter now prepares this one every year.
 
Speaking of grandchildren, Grandma Karen and I have four.  One is approaching his first birthday, so his knife skills are understandably limited.  The other three – now teenagers – typically take full charge of the Whipped Potatoes, Vegetables with Cheese Sauce (they typically choose broccoli or cauliflower), and the Parker House Rolls.  I make the Cherry Cranberry Sauce days ahead with fresh cranberries and my treasured frozen Balaton tart cherries.
 
Which brings me to the Pumpkin Pie.  This one has always been Grandma Karen’s responsibility.  When I asked her for the recipe, she said, “I use the one on the Libby’s can!”  Rather than making an extra trip to the grocery store, I Googled ‘Pumpkin Pie’.  Amazingly, a picture of a can of Libby’s 100% Pure Pumpkin with the recipe popped up first.  You will note that Libby’s gets full and proper credit on the Pumpkin Pie recipe page.
 
Hopefully, after wading through all of this, I have perhaps made you smile a bit, or helped you recall a family tradition of your own, or given you a new idea.  Either way and as always, I thank you sincerely for your time.
 
Happy Thanksgiving and buon appetito.
 
4 Comments

Antipasti

10/3/2014

2 Comments

 
Recently, a good friend and blog reader noted very correctly that the list of Appetizers on the Recipe page of this blog was "rather short."  This is my attempt correct that deficiency.  As you likely have perceived by now, I have a very strong Italian bias, so I elected to title this blog Antipasti. 

Antipasti, literally "before the pasta", is the Italian name for what we typically call appetizers or hors d'oeuvres – or something that is served first in a formal multi-course meal.  As we all know, however, appetizers also are great party foods, and for some occasions can be the only food that is served.  Either way, the general intent is to create selections that use interesting and complementary ingredients, stimulate conversation, and (of course) feed your guests.
FEATURED RECIPES
Baked Brie
Cheese Fondue
Cheese Fondue with Apple Cider
Goat Cheese with Spinach and Tomato Salsa
Grilled Garlic Bruschetta
Jalapeno Crab Dip
Jalapeno Salsa
Roasted Eggplant Spread
Roasted Red Peppers
Strawberry Salsa
Venetian Sausages


The eleven appetizers featured here are more of my favorite recipes.  Only three of them are arguably Italian, but all of them are easy to prepare, and meet my requirements of using interesting and complementary ingredients.  Rather than writing more about each one here (as I frequently do), this time I will let the recipe information already posted “speak” for itself.  Frankly, it’s more efficient that way for all of us.

Also very frankly, I struggled with whether or not preparing a classic Italian antipasti tray deserved its own recipe page.  I decided it did not.  Let me explain why.  Italians love their vegetables, cheeses, and salumi (cured meats).  Every region, in fact most villages, have their own special selections.  Consequently, an antipasti tray from any two locales would contain entirely different foods – even though both would contain cheeses, vegetables, and sausages.  And that’s not even including the olives!  In other words, this is not really a recipe – it is more of a concept, or an idea.

Any of us can build on this idea, too.  The next time you are selecting appetizers for a dinner or party, consider preparing your own version of this classic.  Begin with a large tray and fill it with a selection of your favorite sausages, cheeses, vegetables (roasted, fresh, pickled, or preserved in olive oil), olives (any variety will do, but Gaeta, Castelvetrano, and Kalamata olives are always superb choices), peppers (mild or not), crusty bread and crackers – and a side dish containing your best extra virgin olive oil. It is easy to prepare, colorful, full of interesting textures and flavors, and will definitely please your family and guests.

Buon appetito!
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    Hobby Chef Grandpa Joe has been practicing Italian-style cooking for over 60 years.  He enjoys cooking, entertaining, and sharing culinary experiences with family and friends.

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