Braising is the process of first searing meats and vegetables over high heat and then partially immersing them in liquid to finish cooking at much lower temperatures.  In effect, braising incorporates the the benefits of sautéing, boiling, and roasting – all in one pot.  Browning introduces rich, sweet flavors (recall the Maillard reaction).  Then the partially submerged meat and vegetables exchange flavors with a liquid at or near the boiling point, while the upper portions of the food are exposed to much hotter, but still moist air.

Braising thereby creates a very moist cooking environment that slowly dissolves water-soluble proteins in meat – particularly the connective tissue known as collagen.  This makes braising particularly well-suited for cooking what are generally considered to be “tougher” cuts of meat, such as beef and lamb shanks, and some roasts.  Not surprisingly, these less popular meats are some of the most flavorful, so braising often produces spectacular results.  Beef short ribs definitely fall into the category of incredibly tasty cuts of meat – especially boneless short ribs.

A few years ago we attended a dinner party at the University Club at Michigan State University in East Lansing.  The guest of honor that evening was the wife of one of my college professors and reportedly the oldest living member of the University Club.  I mention this because everyone in the Club that evening was concerned that everything be perfect for their distinguished guest.  I ordered the Club’s Braised Short Ribs, which were, in a word, superb.  When asked, I responded, “Delicious.  Please extend my compliments to the chef.” 

Moments later, the chef appeared at our table, thanked me for my compliment, and after some further conversation, offered, “Would you like the recipe?”

Unfortunately for all of us, I did not record his name.  I had no idea then that I would need it later, as I do now.  Nevertheless, with a hearty mille grazie to this talented chef, I have added his version of Braised Short Ribs to my recipe collection here. 

If you are already familiar with the benefits of braising, I need say no more.  If not, and when you have the time and inclination, I hope you will give this one, or any of the other braising recipes, a try.  You won’t be disappointed.

Several subscribers to this web site have posted comments about some of my blogs and recipes.  You may have read them.  I should have stated much earlier, perhaps in my very first blog, that I welcome any and all comments, suggestions, and complaints.

Two comments were posted recently that I think should be shared with everyone.  (I realize anyone can choose to read all the comments, but that could, over time, become a tedious effort.)

First, a comment from David, a long-term business associate and friend (and very accomplished hobby chef), on my recipe for Bolognese Sauce:

Bolognese (or Bolognaise in America) probably deserves a couple of more comments.  Grandpa Joe, Chef Batali, and cooking/science geek (meant very affectionately) Alton Brown have taught me:

    1. Spaghetti Bolognaise is a dish concocted in the U.S.  No self-respecting person from Bologna would serve that sauce         with spaghetti.

    2. Most of what you see served in the U.S. that is called bolognaise sauce is actually just a tomato-based sauce with                 ground meat added.  This (as you can tell from the recipe) is NOT what it is traditionally.  (I am not saying it is bad - just         that it should be called tomato sauce with meat or something similar.)

    3. If you see the ingredients for this sauce, note that tomatoes are a relatively minor element in the mix.  Meat, other                vegetables, white wine, and milk make up the main elements.  This causes the sauce to be a faint pink or rose color            at best - definitely not RED.

I couldn’t agree more!

The second comment is from Mark, another very accomplished hobby chef who I met through David.  Mark travels to Italy regularly and has visited Sarnano many times.  You may recall that my paternal grandparents were born in Sarnano.  Mark writes about my blog on Preparing Perfect Pasta:

These are the steps I was taught, not only by my mother, but my Italian cooking teachers in Sarnano.  Probably a mention of reserving some pasta water to help in the sauces is appropriate here.  The starch from the pasta water helps hold your sauce together, especially as the heat from the pasta and sauce evaporate liquids.

Again, I agree totally.  About a quarter cup of pasta water added to the pasta after it is drained or to the sauce does exactly as Mark describes.  It is less important with heavy tomato sauces, but it can make a huge difference when you are dressing pasta with butter, oil, or cream sauces.

Mille grazie David and Mark.

Buon Appetito.

Cena in stile Italiano, or dinner Italian style, can be quite an elaborate affair, involving multiple courses, all served separately over several hours.  Eating in courses is certainly not unique to the Italian culture, but Italians do seem to make the most of it.  There is a prescribed order in which each course is served and (in true stubborn Italian style) deviations from this order are "forbidden!"  You may choose to skip a course, but you may not change the order – at least in some of the restaurants I've visited in Italy.

The meal officially begins with an apertivo, usually a beverage such as proseco, a dry Italian sparkling wine.  Then, an array of antipasti (starters, literally "before the meal") appears.  Zuppa (soup) is served next; followed by the primo piatto course (the first plate).  Primo piatto is almost always a pasta course – pasta served with a simple sauce (usually cream, tomato, oil, or butter based).

The main course, or secondo piatto (literally second plate), typically involves meat, seafood, or fish, or some combination of the three.  Next up:  contorno.  Although the contorno (or side dish) is considered a separate course, it is normally served with the secondo piatto, but always on a separate plate.  A vegetable is most often selected as the contorno.  The salad, or insalata, unlike in many cultures, follows the main course and side dish.  After the salad comes the formagi e frutta (cheese and fruit).  Dolci (sweets), the dessert course, follows the fruit and cheese, and caffè (coffee) comes last.  Well, almost last!  Following everything, it is not uncommon for someone to suggest and order (or serve) a digestivo – often grappa or limoncello to facilitate better digestion. 

I remember these huge meals as a child, particularly those on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter.  We didn't have names for each course, we just knew more good food was always yet to come.  As a young boy, my favorite part of the feast was what I now know as the digestivo.  My father always ensured I had a half-shot of Anisette to end the day and to put me quickly to sleep!  Wonderful memories, to be sure.

Even today, my wife and I prefer to entertain with multiple-course meals, although we've yet to serve eleven courses as my ancestors did.  We serve each course separately, and allow time between courses to clear the table, relax a bit, and prepare for the next offering.  It makes for great dining, great conversation, and great fun!

What could be simpler?  Boil some water, add some salt, "drop" the pasta, wait a few minutes, drain, dress, and mangiare!

Alas, nothing seems to be simple these days.  For every piece of information available to us, there seems to be a corresponding piece of misinformation.  So, I will attempt to debunk some myths about cooking pasta that recipes, package instructions, and even television chefs seemed determined to perpetuate.  I also hope to convince you that cooking pasta perfectly every time is really very simple.

First, you need plenty of water.  I use about 3 quarts of water for every half-pound of pasta, regardless of the variety.

Next, you need some salt – about 1 teaspoon of kosher or sea salt per quart of water.  Pasta tastes best, regardless of the dressing used, if it is slightly salted, and the only way to salt pasta is to add salt to the cooking water.   I have more to say about salt, but first let's dismiss three myths.

Myth #1:  You can always add salt "to taste" after it's cooked.  You can add salt, but all you'll get is salty pasta.  This is absolutely the wrong way to season pasta.

Myth #2:  You should add olive oil to the water to keep the pasta from sticking together.  Adding any oil will only make your pasta oily; and more important, unable to "hold" any dressing (sauce, cheese, etc.).  A long wooden spoon is the best tool for keeping pasta from sticking.  You just stir the pasta – especially during the first minute or two, and then maybe a quick stir every 2 or 3 minutes thereafter.  Pasta clumps are usually the result of too little water.

Myth #3:  You should rinse your pasta after draining the pasta water to remove excess starch.  No, you shouldn't!  Rinsing only cools your pasta.  Whatever starch remains after cooking is there for good reasons – texture and taste.  There is an important exception to this, however.  When the cooked pasta is to be used as part of another dish (manicotti, lasagna, etc.) you should stop the cooking process by rinsing the pasta with cold water (or pouring the pasta into an ice bath). 

Most pasta packages include recommended cooking times.  Personally, I think these times are underestimates.  I use the old-fashion technique my father taught me – and no, you do not fling it against the wall!  When you stir uncooked pasta, there is a resistance, or firmness, to the stirring that you can feel through the spoon.  As the pasta cooks, this resistance lessens.  Believe me, you can actually feel the resistance or firmness change if you stir the pot every minute or two.  When the resistance almost disappears (or if you prefer, as you approach the cooking time noted on the package), remove a piece of the pasta, bite into it, and look at the very center of the piece that remains in your hand.  If you see a white dot (or a white area), the pasta needs more time.  Now check more often – maybe every minute.  The moment that white dot or area disappears, the pasta is done.  Remove it from the heat and drain it immediately.  Don't give it an extra minute "to be sure it's done", and don't let the pasta sit in the hot water.

Some final comments about salt.  Most importantly, if you have been counseled by your physician to avoid sodium you should ignore these final paragraphs.  I certainly am not suggesting you challenge your doctor's advice.  If, however, you are watching and minimizing your sodium intake, as most of us are, let me show you that using salt to cook pasta adds a very reasonable amount of sodium to your diet.

Let's do the math.  A pound of dry pasta absorbs about a pound of water as it cooks.  A teaspoon of Morton Coarse Kosher  Salt contains 1.92 grams of sodium (right off the box).  So, my recommendation of one teaspoon of kosher salt per quart of water equates to 0.96 grams of sodium per pound of water, since a quart of water weighs two pounds.  A large, but not unusual, portion of pasta (cooked, but not yet sauced) weighs about 6 ounces, half of which is salted water.  This means a typical serving of pasta contains about 0.18 grams of sodium (3/16 lbs. x 0.96 grams per lb.), or about 180 milligrams – 8% of the daily sodium amount considered safe (2300 milligrams per day) and 12% of the preferred maximum of 1500 milligrams per day.  (If you prefer table salt, which is denser and thus contains about 25% more sodium per teaspoon, I suggest you only use ¾ teaspoons per quart of water to compensate.)

If you're still not convinced, try this.  Take two quarter-pound portions of your favorite pasta.  Cook one portion in plain water, and the other in salted water.  Then taste the two results, side by side, with no added sauce.  In fact, you can even add your favorite sauce.  It won't help.  To me, pasta cooked in plain water tastes bland and paste-like, but you must be the final judge.

I met a wonderful gentleman many years ago who counseled, "There is no such thing as a bad wine.  It's just that some are better than others!"  I have enjoyed every sip of wine, regardless of its price or its quality, ever since.

I've learned that the same can be said for cheese.  Now, to be sure, I am anything but an expert on cheese, so my views are based on somewhat limited tasting experiences.  Nevertheless, I will still claim that every cheese has some redeeming quality.  I can think of no better example than the lowly Cheez-Whiz, problematically called a cheese in the first place.  It's Cheez-Whiz that makes the Philly Cheesesteak sandwich at Pat's in Philadelphia so famous (not to mention the movie Rocky).

At the same time, we cannot forget that some cheeses are better than others.  Authentic Italian cheeses are always better than their counterparts from anywhere else.  True Greek feta is better than its counterparts.  The list goes on.  My point in all this is simple.  If a recipe calls for a specific cheese, substituting will inevitably reduce the quality of the end product.

Several of my recipes use Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, a cheese produced in only one small part of the world – the Emilia-Romagna region in Italy.  Sometimes called the King of Cheeses, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese has no equal.  For some reason that completely escapes me, many (maybe most) recipes that should call for Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese instead call for Parmesan cheese.  Don't be misled.  Parmesan cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese are not the same – not even close.  There's nothing wrong with Parmesan cheese (remember there's no such thing as a bad cheese), but it is not a substitute for the real thing.

One of the reasons (I sincerely hope) that you are reading this is because you are interested in learning how to make the food you prepare taste better.  One way to do that is to use authentic ingredients and avoid substitutions whenever possible.

There is one other cheese issue that I must mention – not to change any of your eating habits, but to make you aware of Italian tradition.  Classically, Parmigiano-Reggiano is never served with a tomato sauce (even on pizza).  Cheeses like pecorino Romano, caciocavallo, mozzarella, and ricotta salata are always used instead.  Similarly, pecorino Romano is seldom, if ever, used in risottos, a specialty of central and northern Italy, where the King of Cheeses rules.

Oh, and then there is the one that causes the most trouble.  In Italy, cheese of any kind is never served with fish or seafood.  The fear is that the cheese will overpower the more delicate taste of the seafood.  The internet abounds with tales of angry customers (usually non-Italians) demanding their cheese and being denied by very stubborn Italian restauranteurs.  Being a stubborn Italian myself, and an equally stubborn restaurant patron, I can see the logic from both sides.  I'll leave the final call to you.

Thin-crust pizzas – typically ¼ -inch thick or less – can be cooked in a pan, but cook much better on a ceramic stone.  Thin-crust pizzas should be cooked as quickly as possible to avoid the dough drying out and becoming brittle.  Remember our earlier discussion of "cooking in air".  While heat "moves" slowly through air, it moves very rapidly through solids.  You will recall this is called conduction.  I purposely deferred writing about conduction until now to be able to discuss it in reference to cooking pizzas on a ceramic stone.

Besides being solids, ceramic materials (e.g., pizza stones) have a very high heat capacities.  This means they capture and hold heat very well.  They heat slowly, but they also cool slowly.  Consequently, when the cooler pizza is placed on the stone, the heat from the stone rapidly cooks the pizza without significantly reducing the stone's temperature.  Sitting on the hot stone, and being surrounded by hot air, the pizza is heated simultaneously from the top (by convection) and bottom (by conduction) and cooks very quickly.

This all means, of course, you will need a pizza stone and a pizza peel (a wooden shovel-like device) to move the pizzas in and out of your oven.  A kitchen scale to measure ingredients is also very helpful.  When baking pizza dough (or any dough, in fact), the water to flour ratio by weight (called hydration by professional bakers) is extremely important.  Too little water and the result will be dry and brittle.  Too much and the pizza will be sponge-like and soggy.  Equally significant, no two flours are exactly alike – especially their densities (their weight per cup, for example).  Weighing the water and the flour eliminates these issues and allows you to measure your ingredients accurately and precisely.

For those of you who do not already have these items in your kitchen, I am including the following recommendations for your convenience.  There are many other suppliers of equally acceptable products.  Most pizza stones are round, but ovens are not, so I prefer a rectangular stone.  The best stone I've found is made by Old Stone Oven.  I buy my pizza peels from The WEBstaurant store; and several economical scales are available at Amazon.com.

As I've stated before, none of this is absolutely necessary, but if you've tried the pan approach and agree that it's a distinct improvement over take-out pizza, you may be ready for the next step.  If so, what you've just read may help.  At least, I certainly hope so.

I rest my case!

Buon appetito.